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“There’s a community feel to Soul & Surf, and while we provide a good service, we hope to bridge the gap between staff and guests. They are currently setting up a new Soul & Surf, which will open in Sri Lanka in November, as well as running pop-ups in the Andaman Islands and Banda Aceh in Indonesia.After three days, I notice I’ve become part of a different world where I struggle to remember the day of the week and my main aim has become to ride a green wave.Brahmani kites and occasional paragliders float by lazily on thermals, while steep steps at the end of the garden lead straight to the beach.

We are not the only early risers – this is activity hour, when the sand is still cool enough for walking barefoot to be a pleasure.

At the furthest end of the beach, a few Hindu worshippers perform morning puja, offering blessed rice wrapped in banana leaves to the sea.

Earlier, in two separate complaints lodged with police, two students, including the one currently undergoing treatment at the Thrissur hospital, had alleged that they were subjected to brutal ragging by their seniors at the institute.

‘This is the closest I’m likely to come to being in a Wes Anderson movie,” my new friend Ben says as we unload foam surfboards from the roof of an Ambassador car, the visual choreography of the brightly coloured boards against the coconut tree-framed horizon adding to the film-set feel.

He currently assists the small team of mainly British, universally patient, teachers. I jump on to my board, belly down, and he gives me a push. A couple of hours later, exhausted and invigorated, guests and staff crowd around communal tables in the clifftop garden to eat breakfast and chat about the waves.

I’ve rarely met someone so passionate about their job. I giggle as the wave swoops me along, reminding me of the feeling of sledging down hills as a child, out of control. The Arabian Sea catches me, swirling me around and down before flinging me back to the surface. Soul & Surf was founded in 2009 by Ed and Sofie Templeton, who quit their jobs in graphic design and fashion in Brighton, set off on a round the world trip, and found themselves lingering in Varkala.Over breakfast one morning, a guest who’s just arrived admits to a fear of the sea.“I won’t go in further than my ankles,” she tells me.Ayurveda, believed to be the oldest healthcare system in the world, is the pride of God’s Own Country.A source of healing and rejuvenation for the body, mind and soul, it touches lives like nothing else ever can.Temple festivals in God's Own Country have an uncanny way of tossing surprises at you at every turn and this ritual, the Kettukazhcha, is just a tip of the iceberg.Golden beaches, emerald backwaters, lofty mountain ranges, powerful art forms...Then on to North Cliff, the main tourist area, a 15-minute walk away.Here, hawkers sell hippie clothes and Ayurvedic doctors offer massages among the juice bars, seafood restaurants, and bakeries. In high season, North Cliff can feel like walking through soup, as hundreds of people meander along the narrow pathway. Three kilometres by auto-rickshaw, Varkala town has canteens serving delicious dosas, and my favourite restaurant – Dwarka – has the best thali, served on banana leaf, and paneer butter masala I’ve tasted.The next day, after some coaxing from instructors, she is standing up on her surfboard, riding white water, any thoughts of keeping her knees dry long forgotten. My pop-up is a clamber, and I can’t quite shake the suspicion that my board will attack when I’m churned underwater.But the feeling of riding a wave – however rare – is unbeatable, and however many times I’m thrown off it’s impossible not to smile in the sea.

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