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A class of primary schoolchildren in smart burgundy uniforms files in a crocodile across the beach and up the cliff steps, a few pausing to stare at our boards.

Fuelled with bananas and chai, we carry our boards down to the water’s edge for a morning surf.“We’re not ex-pros, we just stumbled on it and did it.” With the sport in its infancy in India – an estimated 700 people now surf countrywide – Soul & Surf offers free lessons to local teenagers on Sundays, many of whose parents can’t swim.When they first opened, they had four rooms and no experience, but offered a warm welcome.They were some of the very first surfers in Kerala and still explore the coastline to find new, as yet unclaimed, waves.“It was weird to find ourselves at the forefront of Indian surfing,” Ed says.Even Wes would struggle to create a better set for a restorative break.How often do you see characters from Indian epics saunter down your streets?Aside from the occasional swimmer, we’re the only ones in the water.I’ve tried surfing a few times but sadly I’m still very much a beginner – and it shows as I’m pulled and pushed by the relatively tame waves.Over breakfast one morning, a guest who’s just arrived admits to a fear of the sea.“I won’t go in further than my ankles,” she tells me.

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